The most efficient way to water. Drip irrigation uses 30-50% less water than sprinklers and delivers it exactly where plants need it.
Average savings from converting garden beds and shrubs to drip irrigation compared to spray irrigation, depending on area size and water rates.
Source: Irrigation Association, University Extension Studies
Drip irrigation is the gold standard for water efficiency. While spray sprinklers broadcast water through the air (where 30-50% evaporates or blows away), drip systems deliver water directly to plant roots through a network of tubes and emitters.
The result? 90-95% efficiency compared to 50-70% for spray systems.
The Efficiency Gap:
That efficiency gap translates directly to money saved. Every gallon that evaporates or runs off is a gallon you paid for but didn't use.
Drip systems operate on low pressure (10-30 PSI vs. 40-60 PSI for sprinklers) and deliver water slowly through emitters spaced along tubing.
1. Pressure Regulator
Reduces household water pressure (40-70 PSI) down to optimal drip pressure (15-25 PSI). Without this, emitters can blow off or deliver uneven water.
2. Filter
Removes sediment and particles that would clog tiny emitter openings. Essential component - clogged emitters mean dead plants.
3. Main Line (Distribution Tubing)
Typically 1/2" or 3/4" polyethylene tubing that carries water from source to planted areas. This is the "highway" of your system.
4. Drip Line or Emitter Tubing
Either pre-installed emitters at fixed spacing (drip line) or blank tubing where you insert individual emitters. This delivers water to plants.
5. Emitters
The business end - these release water at controlled rates, typically 0.5 to 2.0 gallons per hour (GPH). Pressure-compensating emitters maintain consistent flow even on slopes.
6. Timer/Controller
Automates watering schedule. Can be simple battery-powered hose timer ($30) or smart controller integrated with existing irrigation system.
| Factor | Spray Sprinklers | Drip Irrigation | Winner |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water Efficiency | 50-70% | 90-95% | Drip (30-45% more efficient) |
| Evaporation Loss | 20-40% | 1-5% | Drip (virtually none) |
| Weed Growth | High (wets entire area) | Low (only waters plants) | Drip (70% less weeds) |
| Disease Pressure | High (wet foliage) | Low (dry foliage) | Drip (healthier plants) |
| Initial Cost | $300-800 per zone | $150-500 per zone | Drip (cheaper) |
| Maintenance | Low (occasional head replacement) | Moderate (filter cleaning, emitter checks) | Sprinklers (less hands-on) |
| Coverage for Lawns | Excellent | Poor (not practical) | Sprinklers (by far) |
| Gardens & Shrubs | Wasteful | Ideal | Drip (perfect match) |
Drip excels in certain applications and fails miserably in others. Here's where it shines:
Delivers water directly to roots, keeps foliage dry (reduces disease), easy to adjust as plants grow.
Water savings: 40-60% vs. overhead sprinklers
Deep, slow watering encourages deep root growth. Use bubbler emitters or drip rings around trunks.
Water savings: 50-70% vs. spray irrigation
Precise water placement, reduced weed competition, keeps blooms dry and clean.
Water savings: 40-50% vs. spray
Individual emitters for each pot, consistent moisture, perfect for deck/patio containers.
Water savings: 30-40% vs. hand watering
Infrequent deep watering, no waste on surrounding soil, ideal for water-wise landscaping.
Water savings: 60-80% vs. spray
Works well with inline drip tape. More coverage needed than gardens, but still efficient.
Water savings: 30-40% vs. spray
Not practical. Would require massive amounts of tubing, uneven coverage, tripping hazard. Stick with sprinklers for lawns.
Water savings: N/A (not recommended)
Emitters built into tubing at fixed spacing (typically 6", 12", 18", or 24" apart).
Best for: Vegetable rows, ground cover, hedge lines
Plain tubing where you punch holes and insert emitters exactly where needed.
Best for: Trees, shrubs, flower beds, container gardens
Larger flow emitters (5-25 GPH) that create small spray patterns or gentle bubbles.
Best for: Trees, large shrubs, areas needing wider coverage
Thin-walled, flat tape with closely spaced emitters. Used in farms and large gardens.
Best for: Large vegetable production, temporary installations
Drip systems are surprisingly affordable, especially for DIY installation.
DIY Installation:
Professional Installation:
ROI Example:
Installing a basic drip system is a manageable weekend project. Here's the process:
Set your timer or controller for appropriate run times. Unlike sprinklers that run 5-15 minutes, drip systems typically run 30-90 minutes due to slower flow rates.
Starting point: 45-60 minutes every 2-3 days in summer
Adjust based on plant needs and soil moisture.
Drip systems need more attention than spray sprinklers, but it's not difficult.
Spring:
Fall/Winter (Cold Climates):
Time commitment: 2-3 hours per year total (far less than hand-watering!)
These mistakes cost people money and frustration. Learn from others' pain:
Problem: Household pressure (40-70 PSI) blows emitters off and causes uneven flow.
Fix: Always use a 25 PSI pressure regulator. They're $10-25 and essential.
Problem: Sediment clogs emitters within weeks. Plants die from lack of water.
Fix: Install a 100-200 mesh filter and clean it monthly. Non-negotiable.
Problem: Can't see leaks, hard to adjust emitters, rodents chew through buried lines.
Fix: Lay tubing on soil surface and cover with 1-2" mulch. Accessible but hidden.
Problem: Emitters too far apart = dry spots and dead plants. Too close = water waste.
Fix: Follow plant spacing. Generally 12-18" for inline drip line, individual emitters 12" from each plant.
Problem: Clogged emitters go unnoticed until plants show stress.
Fix: Walk system monthly during a run. Look for wet soil around each plant.
Problem: Too many emitters on one zone causes low pressure and uneven watering.
Fix: Limit to 200-300 GPH total per zone on 1/2" mainline. Split into multiple zones if needed.
Benefits: Maximum efficiency where water is most expensive. Reduces soil salt buildup with precise watering.
Tip: Run longer cycles less frequently to encourage deep roots. Bury emitters 2-3" under mulch to reduce any surface evaporation.
Benefits: Keeps foliage dry, dramatically reduces fungal diseases common in humid areas.
Tip: Shorter, more frequent cycles okay due to moisture retention. Focus on disease prevention benefit.
Benefits: Easy to winterize (just drain), no heads to crack from freezing.
Tip: Disconnect and drain thoroughly before first freeze. Rodents love chewing tubing in winter - inspect in spring.
Benefits: Supplements natural rainfall efficiently, reduces overwatering during wet periods.
Tip: Use rain sensor or smart controller to skip cycles when soil is already moist.
You don't need to rip out your entire sprinkler system. Many people convert garden/shrub zones to drip while keeping spray zones for lawn.
Cost: $100-300 DIY per zone, $300-600 professional
Many water utilities offer generous rebates for drip conversions:
Some programs offer up to $1,000 for large conversions or commercial properties.
Check our Rebate Finder to see what's available in your area.
See how much water and money you'd save by converting to drip irrigation.
Use Our Calculator âDrip irrigation is the single most efficient watering method available. For gardens, shrubs, trees, and flower beds, nothing else comes close.
You should choose drip if:
Stick with sprinklers if:
The ROI is clear: A $150-300 drip system saves $200-500 per year in water costs while producing healthier plants with less effort. It pays for itself in 1-2 years, then keeps saving money for 10-15 years.